RAD Mod - External Battery

2018-05-26T23:44:52Z

Makermarc:

'''R'''ide '''A'''ll '''D'''ay!

This is a tutorial for an ADVANCED MOD where an external battery is connected, bypassing the onboard battery pack.

This modification includes soldering, drilling, and harness building. Previous experience in these areas is recommended/required.

The overall concept is to set up a wiring harness to allow switching between the onboard battery and a larger external battery for greatly extended range and increased performance.

== How it Works ==
For a little history of how and why, check out the pioneer of the external battery back here:

External Battery - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQDdJWULxsY

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LCh98zPPyo External Battery pt2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LCh98zPPyo]

== Pros and Cons ==
{| class="wikitable"
!Pros
!Cons
|-
|Allows for customized range
|Warranty is done done done
|-
|More cells in parallel exhibit lower voltage drop and can output more continuous power
|Battery compartment must be opened
|-
|Can be implemented to correct issues with the stock BMS or the stock battery
|Drilling/soldering required
|-
|Nothing hanging out of your charge port. Setup is more robust, less prone to accidental damage.
|Loss of amp measuring and cell voltage (see BMS bypass note)
|-
|Preserves Original Battery
|Loss of cell balancing
|-
|Onboard battery and external battery can be charged through chargeport.
|
|-
|Switch back and forth between onboard battery and external battery for "naked riding" and long range cruising
|
|-
|Bypassing BMS means no accidental shut-offs, regen warnings, and other BMS associated issues
|
|-
|Compatible with all OW versions (different battery pack setups may be necessary for optimal results)
|
|}

== Parts List ==
This is meant to be a suggested parts list rather than a specific build of materials. Components can be replaced based on user requirements/preferences.

XT90S Connectors: These antispark connectors will precharge the controller instead of slamming it with the full 58v upon connection of the harness. This is recommended to prevent any damage to the control module. A separate precharge resistor circuit can be hooked up beforehand if alternate connectors are desired.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0732S5V85/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Adhesive Heat-shrink:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6EFUKR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Grommet: Used to secure the wires travelling through the battery case

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-Pack-0-625-in-Rubber-Grommet/3013196

14AWG Wire (Black and Red)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-25-ft-14-Gauge-Single-Conductor-Black-Stranded-THHN-Wire-112-3401A/202564770

EC3 Conncetors

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Female-Style-Connector-Bullet/dp/B013HSSSAU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1527378225&sr=8-10&keywords=ec3+connector

== Battery Pack ==
Similar to the CnR mod or the charging on the go setup, a battery pack must be sourced for this application. The goal here is to match the voltage of the existing battery.

In order to get the full advantage of the RAD mod, it is recommended to use a battery with more than one set of parallel cells. This shares the load between the cells and increases the overall performance (by reducing voltage drop).

Each parallel set of cells is roughly equivalent to 7-miles range, or similar to whatever range you were getting on the OW+

'''Options:'''

1) LiFePO4 (same chemistry as original battery) Nominal cell range 3.0-3.62v/cell or 48V Empty, 58V full.

Specs: 16s1p or greater.

2) Li-ion (18650 ebike style packs or pouch-style packs) Nominal cell range 3.6v-4.2v/cell or 50.4V Empty, 58.8V full.

Specs: 14s1p or greater

'''Conclusion:''' Allthough there are benefits to using the A123 LiFePO4 cells, it is the opinion of the tutorial creater that the Li-ion pack has a more favorable nominal pack voltage window (slightly better performance in most situations) and is ultimately similar in safety. The availability of Li-ion cells is also an advantage.

'''Nominal pack voltage window:'''

== Charging ==
Charging can be done in several ways.

1) External charger: There are a number of 14S chargers out there for the Ego battery packs and similar ebikes. YMMV with the charge rates and full voltage settings.

'''It is highly recommended to limit full voltage to 57v if no BMS or balancing solution is being used. Similarly, it is recommended not to fully discharge your battery if there is no LVC cutoff/alarm.'''

The highest quality, fully programmable charger is the Cycle Satiator http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-satiator.html

2) Stock charger: Although extremely slow for charging a big pack, the stock charger or "Carve-Power" style charger can be used through the XLR charge port, as long as the battery is plugged in and the board is on.

== Assembly ==

== BMS Bypass ==
The BMS bypass can be used in combination with the RAD mod or it can be used alone.

The reasons for eliminating the BMS:
* BMS has failed or is inaccurately reading cell voltages and shutting off the board.
* Removes the ability for the BMS to cut power to the controller under any circumcstances (good or bad.
** Note: The controller will still shut off the board when the voltage drops too low. '''It is highly recommended to avoid this situation.'''

Category:
[[Category:Mods|Mods]]

RAD Mod - External Battery

2018-05-26T18:13:46Z

Makermarc: /* Parts List */

This is a tutorial for an ADVANCED MOD where an external battery is connected, bypassing the onboard battery pack.

This modification includes soldering, drilling, and harness building. Previous experience in these areas is recommended/required.

The overall concept is to set up a wiring harness to allow switching between the onboard battery and a larger external battery for greatly extended range and increased performance.

== Pros and Cons ==
{| class="wikitable"
!Pros
!Cons
|-
|Allows for customized range
|Warranty is done done done
|-
|More cells in parallel exhibit lower voltage drop and can output more continuous power
|Battery compartment must be opened
|-
|Can be implemented to correct issues with the stock BMS or the stock battery
|Drilling/soldering required
|-
|Nothing hanging out of your charge port. Setup is more robust, less prone to accidental damage.
|Loss of amp measuring and cell voltage (see BMS bypass note)
|-
|Preserves Original Battery
|Loss of cell balancing
|-
|Onboard battery and external battery can be charged through chargeport.
|
|-
|Switch back and forth between onboard battery and external battery for "naked riding" and long range cruising
|
|-
|Bypassing BMS means no accidental shut-offs, regen warnings, and other BMS associated issues
|
|-
|Compatible with all OW versions (different battery pack setups may be necessary for optimal results)
|
|}

== Parts List ==
This is meant to be a suggested parts list rather than a specific build of materials. Components can be replaced based on user requirements/preferences.

XT90S Connectors: These antispark connectors will precharge the controller instead of slamming it with the full 58v upon connection of the harness. This is recommended to prevent any damage to the control module. A separate precharge resistor circuit can be hooked up beforehand if alternate connectors are desired.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0732S5V85/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Adhesive Heat-shrink:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6EFUKR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Grommet: Used to secure the wires travelling through the battery case

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-2-Pack-0-625-in-Rubber-Grommet/3013196

14AWG Wire (Black and Red)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-25-ft-14-Gauge-Single-Conductor-Black-Stranded-THHN-Wire-112-3401A/202564770

== Battery Pack ==
Similar to the CnR mod or the charging on the go setup, a battery pack must be sourced for this application. The goal here is to match the voltage of the existing battery.

In order to get the full advantage of the RAD mod, it is recommended to use a battery with more than one set of parallel cells. This shares the load between the cells and increases the overall performance (by reducing voltage drop).

Each parallel set of cells is roughly equivalent to 7-miles range, or similar to whatever range you were getting on the OW+

'''Options:'''

1) LiFePO4 (same chemistry as original battery) Nominal cell range 3.0-3.62v/cell or 48V Empty, 58V full.

Specs: 16s1p or greater.

2) Li-ion (18650 ebike style packs or pouch-style packs) Nominal cell range 3.6v-4.2v/cell or 50.4V Empty, 58.8V full.

Specs: 14s1p or greater

'''Conclusion:''' Allthough there are benefits to using the A123 LiFePO4 cells, it is the opinion of the tutorial creater that the Li-ion pack has a more favorable nominal pack voltage window (slightly better performance in most situations) and is ultimately similar in safety. The availability of Li-ion cells is also an advantage.

'''Nominal pack voltage window:'''

== Charging ==
Charging can be done in several ways.

1) External charger: There are a number of 14S chargers out there for the Ego battery packs and similar ebikes. YMMV with the charge rates and full voltage settings.

'''It is highly recommended to limit full voltage to 57v if no BMS or balancing solution is being used. Similarly, it is recommended not to fully discharge your battery if there is no LVC cutoff/alarm.'''

The highest quality, fully programmable charger is the Cycle Satiator http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-satiator.html

2) Stock charger: Although extremely slow for charging a big pack, the stock charger or "Carve-Power" style charger can be used through the XLR charge port, as long as the battery is plugged in and the board is on.

== Assembly ==

== BMS Bypass ==
The BMS bypass can be used in combination with the RAD mod or it can be used alone.

The reasons for eliminating the BMS:
* BMS has failed or is inaccurately reading cell voltages and shutting off the board.
* Removes the ability for the BMS to cut power to the controller under any circumcstances (good or bad.
** Note: The controller will still shut off the board when the voltage drops too low. '''It is highly recommended to avoid this situation.'''

Category:
[[Category:Mods|Mods]]

Makermarc: Spacing issue

'''<pre style="color: red">Use at your own risk. I am not responsible if you break your Onewheel, injure yourself, someone else, or burn your house down.</pre>'''

== Overview of options ==
You have to choose what’s most important to you. Every option has tradeoffs on price, weight, capacity, and safety.

{| class="wikitable"
! Option
! Pros
! Cons
|-
| [[#DC battery pack|DC battery pack (e.g. solar charger)]]
|
- Lightest solution 
- Most energy efficient (DC->DC) 
- Lots of battery choices

- Offers the greatest control over capacity and rate of charge
|
- The cheapest DIY solution is the most technical. Requires soldering. 
- Safety is dependent on batteries used

- May require separate charger for portable pack depending on configuration

|-
| [[#AC battery pack|AC battery pack (e.g. Chafon)]]
|
- Most common solution 
- Safe 
- Includes multiple USB ports and outlets
|
- Heavy (7lbs w/ battery and charger) 
- You must carry charger too 
- AC->DC is inefficient from energy perspective 
- Expensive ($300+) 
- Battery capacity readings are wildly inaccurate
|-
| Car inverter
|
- Lots of options on the market 
- Don’t have to carry anything while riding 
- Safe
|
- Must be at your car to charge 
- Need to make sure it can handle 300W load
|}

== Onewheel specs ==
* Charger output: 58V 3.5A
* Charger capacity: 130Wh
* Wattage required to charge: 250-300W

== Commercial Solutions ==

=== DC Battery Pack ===
[[File:Carvepower_Charger.jpg|frameless|400x400px]]

DC Charger from Carvepower- https://carvepower.com/products/dc-charger-for-onewheel

This charger uses a 36v 4.4ah hoverboard battery to charge the Onewheel. A solar charge controller boosts the output of the battery to the 58V 3.5A required by the Onewheel. One battery provides one charge, and the Onewheel wall charger is not necessary. A separate AC charger is provided to recharge the portable battery. The controller is attached to a mount which slides on to the battery case, making it easy to switch between multiple batteries. The total weight of the controller and one battery is 4lbs.

The battery itself is not included in the kit, but can be purchased separately. Currently the best price available is from this EBay seller- http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SAMSUNG-18650-36V-4-4AH-BATTERY-EBIKE-VAPE-POWERWALL-BATTERIES-20-CELLS-BMS-/201895735309?epid=1621923126&hash=item2f01ec700d:g:Mh8AAOSwSypY9Y7d

Carvepower DC Charger instructions- https://www.dropbox.com/s/hkt86dyslpq5cyb/DC%20Charger%20Instructions.pdf?dl=0

=== AC battery pack ===
The idea is to use an AC battery pack with the standard [[Onewheel charger]].

[[File:Ac_inverter.png]]
==== Tested solutions ====
{| class="wikitable"
! Option
! Pros
! Cons
|-
| [http://amzn.to/2skjq8B Chafon CF-UPS008] 
$290 for 2 charges (288Wh)
|
- Most common option in community
|
- Modified sine wave 
- Heavy - 7lbs
|-
|
[http://amzn.to/2sk9ITK igoeshopping] 
$311 for 2 charges (288Wh)
|
- Pure sine wave
|
- Heavy - 7lbs
|-
|
[http://amzn.to/2sxo0Rp AMSU] 
$300 for 2.5 charges (330Wh)
|
- Pure sine wave
|
- Heavy - 7lbs
|}

==== Incompatible with Onewheel ====
#ExpertPower Omega 453

== DIY DC battery pack ==
The idea is to use a solar charge controller to upconvert a portable battery’s voltage to the 58V that the Onewheel expects. The solar charge controller is typically used to charge a battery via a solar panel. However in this case, your portable battery takes place of the solar panel and your Onewheel is the battery you’re charging.

See photo from @timvp below:
[[File:charger_setup.png]]

Make sure you protect your battery with something soft in case you wipeout while riding. I suggest packing foam.

=== Step 1: choose a battery and charger ===

{| class="wikitable"
! Battery options
! Specs
! Pros
! Cons
|-
| [http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-12-5Ah-Lithium-Battery-W-Charger-For-Mountain-Bike-Scooter-Motor-DIY-Kits-/292009928107 36V 12.5Ah Lithium Scooter battery]
| $209 for 3.5 charges (450Wh) @ 5lbs
|
# Most bang for buck in terms of cost and capacity
# AC charger included
# Safe since it's LiOn
|
# No BMS
|-
| [http://www.ebay.com/p/36v-4-4ah-Replacement-Lithium-Ion-Battery-for-Smart-Board-2-wheel-Scooter/1180968277 36V 4.4ah Lithium batteries from eBay]
| $60 for ~1 charge (158Wh)
|
# Cheap ($60)
# A couple folks in the community have had luck with this
|
# [https://batterybro.com/blogs/18650-wholesale-battery-reviews/30828867-is-it-a-fake-18650-battery-featuring-the-samsung-25r Lots of fakes]
|-
| [https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-4200mah-3s1p-30c-lifepo4-pack.html LiFePO4]
| $35 for ½ charge (42Wh?) @ 1lb
|
# Safe. This is the same kind of battery that the Onewheel uses.
|
# Less than one charge
|-
| [https://lunacycle.com/52v-mighty-mini-cube-ebike-battery-pack-panasonic-pf-5-8ah-affordable/ 52V Mighty Mini]
| $230 for 2.5 charges (300Wh) @ 3.3lb
|
# Safe
# It should be possible to charge it with stock OW charger (to be confirmed)
|
# Unsure how to upconvert 52V to 58V as the solar charger doesn’t support 52V as input
|-
| [https://jet.com/product/detail/9483763f3ec948939e5cf3c12294c362 Lithium battery from Jet.com]
| $129 for ~1 charge (158Wh) @ 2.6lbs
|
# Safe (UL certified supposedly)
# Can be charged with LunaCycle charger
|
# [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_management_system No BMS]
|-
| [http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/batteries/b362-7-ligo.html 36V LiGo]
| $150 for <1 charge (98Wh) @ 1.3lbs
|
# Safe w/ BMS
# Lightweight
# Can be charged with LunaCycle charger
# Designed to be rugged
|
# Less than one charge
|-
|Lipo Bricks (RC packs)
(Good Value: [https://hobbyking.com/en_us/batteries/multistar-batteries.html?dir=desc&order=config MultiStar])
|$140 for 3 charges (444Wh) @ 2.6lbs
|
* Low cost
* Offers fast charging of OW (0-100% under 20 min)
* Can be recharged quickly with external charger
* Packs are modular (Recommended configuration is two 6s packs with series connection for 12s (50V output)
|
* Requires occasional balancing
* Packs are sometimes defective (low charging speed or dead cells)
* Hobby-grade charger is recommended for balancing, cell health monitoring, and fast charging
* Packs require protective case for safety, should be charged in a safe location etc.
|}

You also need a way to charge your portable battery.
{| class="wikitable"
! Charger options
! Pros
! Cons
|-
| [https://lunacycle.com/36v-4amp-luna-mini-charger/ LunaCycle charger]
|
# Cheap ($60)
# Safe because it auto-shuts off
# XT60 connector
|
|-
| AC → DC charger
|
# Uses off the shelf power supply
|
# Requires [http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-DC-Barrel-F-to-XT-60-M-Lipo-Battery-Charger-Power-Adapter-B5-/142329251634?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275 DC Barrel to XT60 connector]
|-
| [https://hobbyking.com/en_us/accuell-s60-ac-charger-us-plug.html LiFePO4 charger]
|
# Cheap ($30)
|
|}

To be safe, buy a [http://amzn.to/2s2tXGy battery pouch] and only charge when you’re near the charger and awake.

=== Step 2: buy the other parts ===
# [http://amzn.to/2thPS8I Solar charge controller] - $40
[[File:charge_controller.png]]
# [https://lunacycle.com/batteries/connectors/xt60-set-connectors-with-pigtails/ 2x XT60 pigtails] - $3 each
[[File:xt60_pigtails.png]]
# [http://www.markertek.com/product/nc3fx/neutrik-nc3fx-female-3-pin-xlr-connector-nickel-silver XLR plug] - $3
[[File:xlr_plug.png]]

=== Step 3: configure the solar charge controller ===
The output of the solar charge controller must match the output of the [[Onewheel charger]]. Your settings should look something like the photo below.

[[File:controller_config.png]]

The first line is for monitoring your supply battery, it is not critical if this is incorrect. Set the first line (where it says 32.5V) to the minimum voltage of your battery. 32V is generally a safe setting for a 36V-rated battery.

The critical settings are on the second and third lines (Target voltage ('''58V''') and Amp limit). If the voltage is set incorrectly, the battery will overcharge or may not fully charge.

The stock charger supplies 3.5A. If you are using a 36V battery, you will not be able to exceed 3.5A. If your supply voltage is 50-60V, you will be able to charge the OW at a higher rate. Limited testing has been done on fast-charging, but there do not appear to be any major drawbacks (cycle life and warranty may be affected).

Remember! The battery pack should be on the solar panel label and OW on the battery label on the solar charge controller.

'''Never charge your batteries while they are cold!!!'''

The manual can be found [http://www.mhinstek.com/pdf/User's%20manual%20of%20MPT-7210A.pdf here].[[File:Fast charge.jpg|thumb|371x371px|Lipo Pack 12S running at 8A|none]]

=== Step 4: solder the wires to the XLR plug ===
The Onewheel’s XLR plug requires a different wiring than the off-the-shelf XLR plugs. Unfortunately, that means you have to do some soldering.

Below is the correct configuration. Notice the positive wire is connected to *both* pins 2 and 3 of the XLR plug. If you want to verify this yourself, you can easily open the Onewheel charger’s XLR plug.

[[File:xlr_solder.png]]

=== Step 5: hook it all up! ===
Portable battery → male XT60 pigtail → solar charge converter → female XT60 pigtail → male XT60 pigtail → soldered XLR plug → (wait until voltage reaches 58V before plugging in!) Onewheel

Sometimes the OW does not go into its charge mode automatically. Simply press the power button in this case.

When you’re done charging, I suggest turning off the solar charge converter first before unplugging anything. Then disconnect the battery. Then unplug from Onewheel.

Charging Onewheel to 100% is safe. You’ll see the amps ramp down on the solar charge converter display as you enter “trickle charge” mode. But you’ll want to disconnect soon or it’ll just slowly drain your battery.

Charging on-the-go

2018-01-31T17:14:25Z

Makermarc: /* DIY DC battery pack */ Updates to battery options

'''<pre style="color: red">Use at your own risk. I am not responsible if you break your Onewheel, injure yourself, someone else, or burn your house down.</pre>'''

== Overview of options ==
You have to choose what’s most important to you. Every option has tradeoffs on price, weight, capacity, and safety.

{| class="wikitable"
! Option
! Pros
! Cons
|-
| [[#DC battery pack|DC battery pack (e.g. solar charger)]]
|
- Lightest solution 
- Most energy efficient (DC->DC) 
- Lots of battery choices

- Offers the greatest control over capacity and rate of charge
|
- The cheapest DIY solution is the most technical. Requires soldering. 
- Safety is dependent on batteries used

- May require separate charger for portable pack depending on configuration

|-
| [[#AC battery pack|AC battery pack (e.g. Chafon)]]
|
- Most common solution 
- Safe 
- Includes multiple USB ports and outlets
|
- Heavy (7lbs w/ battery and charger) 
- You must carry charger too 
- AC->DC is inefficient from energy perspective 
- Expensive ($300+) 
- Battery capacity readings are wildly inaccurate
|-
| Car inverter
|
- Lots of options on the market 
- Don’t have to carry anything while riding 
- Safe
|
- Must be at your car to charge 
- Need to make sure it can handle 300W load
|}

== Onewheel specs ==
* Charger output: 58V 3.5A
* Charger capacity: 130Wh
* Wattage required to charge: 250-300W

== Commercial Solutions ==

=== DC Battery Pack ===
[[File:Carvepower_Charger.jpg|frameless|400x400px]]

DC Charger from Carvepower- https://carvepower.com/products/dc-charger-for-onewheel

This charger uses a 36v 4.4ah hoverboard battery to charge the Onewheel. A solar charge controller boosts the output of the battery to the 58V 3.5A required by the Onewheel. One battery provides one charge, and the Onewheel wall charger is not necessary. A separate AC charger is provided to recharge the portable battery. The controller is attached to a mount which slides on to the battery case, making it easy to switch between multiple batteries. The total weight of the controller and one battery is 4lbs.

The battery itself is not included in the kit, but can be purchased separately. Currently the best price available is from this EBay seller- http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SAMSUNG-18650-36V-4-4AH-BATTERY-EBIKE-VAPE-POWERWALL-BATTERIES-20-CELLS-BMS-/201895735309?epid=1621923126&hash=item2f01ec700d:g:Mh8AAOSwSypY9Y7d

Carvepower DC Charger instructions- https://www.dropbox.com/s/hkt86dyslpq5cyb/DC%20Charger%20Instructions.pdf?dl=0

=== AC battery pack ===
The idea is to use an AC battery pack with the standard [[Onewheel charger]].

[[File:Ac_inverter.png]]
==== Tested solutions ====
{| class="wikitable"
! Option
! Pros
! Cons
|-
| [http://amzn.to/2skjq8B Chafon CF-UPS008] 
$290 for 2 charges (288Wh)
|
- Most common option in community
|
- Modified sine wave 
- Heavy - 7lbs
|-
|
[http://amzn.to/2sk9ITK igoeshopping] 
$311 for 2 charges (288Wh)
|
- Pure sine wave
|
- Heavy - 7lbs
|-
|
[http://amzn.to/2sxo0Rp AMSU] 
$300 for 2.5 charges (330Wh)
|
- Pure sine wave
|
- Heavy - 7lbs
|}

==== Incompatible with Onewheel ====
#ExpertPower Omega 453

== DIY DC battery pack ==
The idea is to use a solar charge controller to upconvert a portable battery’s voltage to the 58V that the Onewheel expects. The solar charge controller is typically used to charge a battery via a solar panel. However in this case, your portable battery takes place of the solar panel and your Onewheel is the battery you’re charging.

See photo from @timvp below:
[[File:charger_setup.png]]

Make sure you protect your battery with something soft in case you wipeout while riding. I suggest packing foam.

=== Step 1: choose a battery and charger ===

{| class="wikitable"
! Battery options
! Specs
! Pros
! Cons
|-
| [http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-12-5Ah-Lithium-Battery-W-Charger-For-Mountain-Bike-Scooter-Motor-DIY-Kits-/292009928107 36V 12.5Ah Lithium Scooter battery]
| $209 for 3.5 charges (450Wh) @ 5lbs
|
# Most bang for buck in terms of cost and capacity
# AC charger included
# Safe since it's LiOn
|
# No BMS
|-
| [http://www.ebay.com/p/36v-4-4ah-Replacement-Lithium-Ion-Battery-for-Smart-Board-2-wheel-Scooter/1180968277 36V 4.4ah Lithium batteries from eBay]
| $60 for ~1 charge (158Wh)
|
# Cheap ($60)
# A couple folks in the community have had luck with this
|
# [https://batterybro.com/blogs/18650-wholesale-battery-reviews/30828867-is-it-a-fake-18650-battery-featuring-the-samsung-25r Lots of fakes]
|-
| [https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-4200mah-3s1p-30c-lifepo4-pack.html LiFePO4]
| $35 for ½ charge (42Wh?) @ 1lb
|
# Safe. This is the same kind of battery that the Onewheel uses.
|
# Less than one charge
|-
| [https://lunacycle.com/52v-mighty-mini-cube-ebike-battery-pack-panasonic-pf-5-8ah-affordable/ 52V Mighty Mini]
| $230 for 2.5 charges (300Wh) @ 3.3lb
|
# Safe
# It should be possible to charge it with stock OW charger (to be confirmed)
|
# Unsure how to upconvert 52V to 58V as the solar charger doesn’t support 52V as input
|-
| [https://jet.com/product/detail/9483763f3ec948939e5cf3c12294c362 Lithium battery from Jet.com]
| $129 for ~1 charge (158Wh) @ 2.6lbs
|
# Safe (UL certified supposedly)
# Can be charged with LunaCycle charger
|
# [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_management_system No BMS]
|-
| [http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/batteries/b362-7-ligo.html 36V LiGo]
| $150 for <1 charge (98Wh) @ 1.3lbs
|
# Safe w/ BMS
# Lightweight
# Can be charged with LunaCycle charger
# Designed to be rugged
|
# Less than one charge
|-
|Lipo Bricks (RC packs)
(Good Value: [https://hobbyking.com/en_us/batteries/multistar-batteries.html?dir=desc&order=config MultiStar])
|$140 for 3 charges (444Wh) @ 2.6lbs
|
* Low cost
* Offers fast charging of OW (0-100% under 20 min)
* Can be recharged quickly with external charger
* Packs are modular (Recommended configuration is two 6s packs with series connection for 12s (50V output)
|
* Requires occasional balancing
* Packs are sometimes defective (low charging speed or dead cells)
* Hobby-grade charger is recommended for balancing, cell health monitoring, and fast charging
* Packs require protective case for safety, should be charged in a safe location etc.
|}

You also need a way to charge your portable battery.
{| class="wikitable"
! Charger options
! Pros
! Cons
|-
| [https://lunacycle.com/36v-4amp-luna-mini-charger/ LunaCycle charger]
|
# Cheap ($60)
# Safe because it auto-shuts off
# XT60 connector
|
|-
| AC → DC charger
|
# Uses off the shelf power supply
|
# Requires [http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-DC-Barrel-F-to-XT-60-M-Lipo-Battery-Charger-Power-Adapter-B5-/142329251634?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275 DC Barrel to XT60 connector]
|-
| [https://hobbyking.com/en_us/accuell-s60-ac-charger-us-plug.html LiFePO4 charger]
|
# Cheap ($30)
|
|}

To be safe, buy a [http://amzn.to/2s2tXGy battery pouch] and only charge when you’re near the charger and awake.

=== Step 2: buy the other parts ===
# [http://amzn.to/2thPS8I Solar charge controller] - $40
[[File:charge_controller.png]]
# [https://lunacycle.com/batteries/connectors/xt60-set-connectors-with-pigtails/ 2x XT60 pigtails] - $3 each
[[File:xt60_pigtails.png]]
# [http://www.markertek.com/product/nc3fx/neutrik-nc3fx-female-3-pin-xlr-connector-nickel-silver XLR plug] - $3
[[File:xlr_plug.png]]

=== Step 3: configure the solar charge controller ===
The output of the solar charge controller must match the output of the [[Onewheel charger]]. Your settings should look something like the photo below.

[[File:controller_config.png]]

The first line is for monitoring your supply battery, it is not critical if this is incorrect. Set the first line (where it says 32.5V) to the minimum voltage of your battery. 32V is generally a safe setting for a 36V-rated battery.

The critical settings are on the second and third lines (Target voltage (58V) and Amp limit). If the voltage is set incorrectly, the battery will overcharge or may not fully charge.

The stock charger supplies 3.5A. If you are using a 36V battery, you will not be able to exceed 3.5A. If your supply voltage is 50-60V, you will be able to charge the OW at a higher rate. Limited testing has been done on fast-charging, but there do not appear to be any major drawbacks (cycle life and warranty may be affected).
[[File:Fast charge.jpg|left|thumb|371x371px|Lipo Pack 12S running at 8A]]

Remember! The battery pack should be on the solar panel label and OW on the battery label on the solar charge controller.

'''Never charge your batteries while they are cold!!!'''

The manual can be found [http://www.mhinstek.com/pdf/User's%20manual%20of%20MPT-7210A.pdf here].

=== Step 4: solder the wires to the XLR plug ===
The Onewheel’s XLR plug requires a different wiring than the off-the-shelf XLR plugs. Unfortunately, that means you have to do some soldering.

Below is the correct configuration. Notice the positive wire is connected to *both* pins 2 and 3 of the XLR plug. If you want to verify this yourself, you can easily open the Onewheel charger’s XLR plug.

[[File:xlr_solder.png]]

=== Step 5: hook it all up! ===
Portable battery → male XT60 pigtail → solar charge converter → female XT60 pigtail → male XT60 pigtail → soldered XLR plug → (wait until voltage reaches 58V before plugging in!) Onewheel

Sometimes the OW does not go into its charge mode automatically. Simply press the power button in this case.

When you’re done charging, I suggest turning off the solar charge converter first before unplugging anything. Then disconnect the battery. Then unplug from Onewheel.

Charging Onewheel to 100% is safe. You’ll see the amps ramp down on the solar charge converter display as you enter “trickle charge” mode. But you’ll want to disconnect soon or it’ll just slowly drain your battery.

File:Fast charge.jpg

2018-01-31T17:09:27Z

Makermarc: